It seems the previous owner decided to not replace the 6-pin but rather just patch into it with a 7-pin, so it's a mess. I opened all the wiring up and found about 6 butt splices and even a couple marettes holding the wiring together, as well as d disconnected wire, presumably what is causing my problems. After my last trip and having no left turn signal or brake lights, I realized I had a problem. 7 pin plugs are pretty standard the 12 pin can throw the odd curly colour so always test to confirm voltage and polarity, some equipment will not handle reverse polarity at all, don't assume it was wired correctly in the first place, you can even find a mod may have been done further down the line out of sight, the fuses in the fuse board may not match their labels either, you pull a fuse and the circuit you are working on is still live, test always to be sure.My 2000 Jayco Qwest 10X had the wiring converted from the stock 6-pin rectangle adapter to a 7-pin adapter, presumably by the previous owner. brown will come into the equation as well at times, mostly lights though. Take Note that wiring found in caravans may vary between fittings, do not assume RED is POS (+ve) and BLACK is NEG (-ve), sometimes White can be NEG( -ve ) with BLACK POS (+ve), so it pays to check the polarity of connections when testing circuits. (pull pin on breakaway will activate the blue as well) a meter on this pin should only be active when the brake pedal is pushed or the button on the controller, if it stays alive when neither are operated then you will have to find where the power is coming from by simple disconnect of any other live wires. the blue wire is your brake wire so that should be the only one on the #5 pin. the Breakaway should have just a 12v supply from tug to charge its battery but it may be getting power from the 12v van supply loom elsewhere. if this is in the van plug then disconnect it and your problem may be solved. The instructions for the Breakaway are easy enough to find online, if the van was wired up for NSW it will have a purple wire for the breakaway monitor in tug, as NSW required one to be fitted in tug, other states didn't, NSW doesn't require it anymore. Pin # 10 then provides a heavy pin connection for the earth return to tug If you have all the wiring correct as said, then make sure you dial down the braking power so brakes are not locking up. If you want to keep the use of your tug reversing lights, do not use pin #2 on tug and use a separate heavy line from tug battery to pin # 8 on tug socket and use pin # 8 on van plug to provide power through the Setec to charge van battery when moving. This meant that you had to terminate (or disconnect) this wire at the tug socket (thus disabling the reversing lights) and run a separate line from tug battery to pin # 2 connector to provide power to van battery via Setec. ![]() ![]() Pin #2 was originally meant for reversing light from tug, but Jayco hi-jacked this connection to run 12 volt power to Setec (or similar) to charge van battery whilst on the move using pin # 2 on van socket (Aux input). I have a separate dedicated line from tug to van with Anderson plug connections. If you are running your fridge, it must be connected to the heavier pins - # 8 hi current pos +ve from tug (Fused of course) and pin # 10 is the hi current neg -ve back to tug vehicle chassis. ![]() But for your info, this is what I have done for my van if you have a Setec BMS. Pins 8 to 12 are not normally involved, but are intended to carry the heavier currents to the van - 35A as against 15A for the smaller pins. Generally speaking, his advices are correct. Click to expand.Hi, has sent you a picture of a flat 7 pin plug for your van instead of the 12 pin you have fitted.
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